Scrub Brush Sander Used at Lathe(1945’s)

scrub-brush-sander1

To get the full plans and directions for building these Scrub Brush Sander CLICK HERE

AN ORDINARY scrub brush affords one of the best means of sanding objects turned in the lathe. It is vastly superior to most other methods. Sandpapering a spindle turning without some sort of backing is hard on the hands because of frictional heat generated by the turning spindle against the sandpaper. The use of a regular sandpaper block to hold the sandpaper during this operation is not practical as the contour of the turning cannot be followed with great enough accuracy. A stiff-bristled brush overcomes these disadvantages because it is sufficiently resilient to take on the contour of the average wood turning.

The wood backing of the scrub brush should have square ends to permit the securing of a sheet of sandpaper. The sand paper may be fastened to the wood backing with thumbtacks as shown, but if a more permanent method of fastening is desired, strips of wood 1/4″ x 1/2″ in section can be used as cleats. Screws driven through the cleats and into the back of the brush can be tightened after the ends of the sandpaper have been slipped under the
loosened wood cleats.

To get the full plans and directions for building these Scrub Brush Sander CLICK HERE


Simple Home-Made Oven Makes Plastics Easy to Work(1945’s)

oven-for-plastic

To get the full plans and directions for building these Simple Home-Made Oven Makes Plastics to Easy Work CLICK HERE

CRAFTSMEN who have had experience with thermoplastics such as Lucite and Plexiglas have learned that these materials can be bent and molded into interesting shapes. When heated, these plastics become as pliable as leather. Heating has usually been done in a kitchen oven, as this was the only available source of indirect heat; but the handicap encountered in utilizing the oven has restricted the class of work that could be accomplished, inasmuch as the forming process had to be carried on in the kitchen, very near to the oven. The loss of heat in a thermoplastic is quite rapid in the first seconds and this drop may be sufficiently great to prevent successful molding if too much time elapses between oven and form.

Now, with the development of this simple oven which makes use of an in frared ray lamp, it is possible to construct an oven for heating plastics right in the shop. Such an oven consists of a length of stovepipe set in a stand which holds the lamp at one end and provides a sliding cover, or door, at the other end. The oven shown in the photographs and drawing has been designed around an infrared lamp having a reflector of 7″ diameter. Construction of the unit should not be started until the lamp has been obtained. The groove cut in one of the end pieces to hold the reflector can then be made to fit the reflector. Materials required for construction of the oven are a 2-ft. length of stove pipe 7″ in diameter, a piece of asbestos 23″ x 24″, a wooden base measuring 3/4″ x 9″ x 29″, two end pieces 3/4″ x 8″ x 8 1/4″, two pieces 1/2″ x 1″ x 81/4″ for the cover guides, a top stretcher 1/2″ x 2″ x 25″, four wooden turnbuttons  3/8″ x 1/2″ x 1″, a piece of sheet metal 1/32″ x 6 1/2″ x 9″ for the cover, and a strip of wood 1/2″ x 3/4″ x 7 1/2″ for the knob or handle of the sliding metal cover.

Construction of the oven is started with the end pieces. Each of these pieces is to be set up in the lathe on a faceplate in order to turn the grooves that are to take the stovepipe and light reflector. The inside face of each piece must have a groove for the stovepipe. The outside face of one end piece must also have a recess for the reflector. Beyond the recess the center area is cut out entirely. The center of the groove* is located at a point 4″ from one end and 4″ from the edge. At these points, a small pilot hole is bored.The wood is mounted on a center screw faceplate and is set up in the lathe. A groove having an outside diameter of 7″ which is equivalent to the diameter of the reflector is cut in the face to a depth of 1/8″. The width of the groove should be at least 3/8″. The stock is then reversed on the faceplate so a groove of the same diameter can be cut in the inside face to a depth of 1/4″ to take the stovepipe as in Fig. 1. The center area, 6 1/2″ in diameter, is removed on a jig saw as in Fig. 2. The other end member will require a 7″ x 1/4″ groove cut in the inside face only, to take the stovepipe. A hole 6 1/2″ in diameter is cut also in the center of the second piece.

The finished end members are attached to the base with 1 1/2″ No. 8 flat head screws in holes bored and counter sunk in the base. After one of the end members has been fastened to the base, the stovepipe is placed in position and the second end member is attached to the base. The top stretcher is fastened to the end members with 1 1/4″ No. 7  flat head screws. The four turn buttons required to hold the reflector in place are shaped as shown in the sketch. A hole to take a 1″ No. 6 round head screw is bored in each button. The buttons are fastened to the end member so that they will engage the rim of the reflector and hold it in place as in Fig. 4. Each cover guide has a 1/16″ x 1/4″ rabbet cut along one edge to take the sheet metal cover. These guides are fastened to the end member with 1″ No. 6 flat head screws. The strip of wood that acts as the handle for the cover is attached to the metal with 1/2″ No. 3 round head screws set in holes drilled through the metal.

The asbestos covering is wrapped around the outside of the pipe where it is secured with friction tape as in Fig. 3. In use, the oven will have to be preheated a few minutes before the plastic is placed inside. For quickest results, small pieces of plastic should be placed near the end of the oven where the lamp is located.

To get the full plans and directions for building these Simple Home-Made Oven Makes Plastics to Easy Work CLICK HERE

Modern Mahogany Lamp Table(1949’s)

modern-mahogany-lamp-table

To get the full plans and directions for building these Modern Mahogany Lamp Table CLICK HERE


Construction of this modern lamp table should be started with the preparation of the leg member. These will require four piece of mahogany dressed to 1 1/2″ square and 30″ long. The leg are to be tapered on the inside surface only, starting from a point 3/4″ from the upper end. At this point the leg should measure 1 1/2″ square. The taper extend to the lower end, at which point the leg is to measure 7/8″ square a shown in Fig. 10. It is advisable to lay out these tapers before attempting to cut them. If this is done, the work can be checked and the danger of error eliminated. Tile tapering may be done on the bench saw with the aid of a tapering jig a shown in Fig. 1. The waste pieces should be set aside to be used in a later operation. At the bench saw will leave the surface rough, it will be necessary to dress the stock by hand planning or passing it over a jointer for a light cut.

The next operation will be that of laying out and cutting the dadoes a shown in Fig. 11 to take the helve. The location of these dadoes is taken from the working drawing, Fig. 10, while their size is shown in Fig.11. To cut the dadoes, a fixture will have to be prepared a shown in Fig. 2. The fixture consists of a piece of 2 x 2  stock at least 18″ long with a V-groove cut along one face. The groove can be made on the bench saw by tilting the table or the arbor at an angle of 45?. The width of the dado is laid out on this fixture about 6″ from one end. The depth at which the dado is cut on the fixture ill be the controlling factor for cutting the dadoes to the required depth on the leg. As shown in Fig. 2, the leg is placed in the fixture with the waste trip, which  were  previously removed, put back to bring the leg horizontal to the saw table.After the dadoes have been completed, 3/8″ holes are located and bored in each as shown  in Fig. 3 and 11, to take dowels. The depth of the dowel hole should be 9″ x 16″ below the surface of  the dado.

Next, a ¼” x   ¾” rabbet is cut on the outside surfaces each  member at the
upper end to take the ¼” apron. This can be done on the bench saw.  The shelve are made of 3/4″ mahogany.  One measure 12 3/4″ square, the other  13 1/4″ square. The four corner of each are cut at an angle of 45? as shown in Fig. 4 and 11 to fit the dadoes previously cut in the leg member. A 3/8″ hole is located in the center of each corner cut and bored to a depth of   9″ x 16″. The shelf and leg member should be and sandpapered with   No. 1 and No. 2 sandpaper. Figure 5 show how these member are assembled. Dowel 1″ long are cut and glued in the dowel hole of the leg member. The helve are joined to the leg member after applying glue to the dowel and dowel hole. Lamp should be used as in Fig. 7 to force the shelve into the dadoes for a tight fit.

The table top ill require a piece of 3/4″ mahogany 14″ square. A 1/4″ x 1/2″ rabbet is cut along the edge and end a shown in Fig. 6. The top is to be joined to the legs by mean of dowel a shown in Fig. 7. To spot these dowels, 1″ brads are driven part way into the end of each leg at the center. The head is cut off with nippers to produce a harp point. The table top is placed in position, resting on the projecting brads. A light tap on the table top at each corner will produce an identation on the underside, there by locating  the position of the dowel hole. The brads are withdrawn and 3/8″hole is bored to a depth of 3/4″ in each leg. A 3/8″ hole 1/2″ deep is bored in the underside of the top at each dowel location. Dowel 3/8″ in diameter and 11/8″ long are cut and glued in the top member, which is joined to the leg a. shown in Fig. 7.

The apron requires four piece 1/4″ x 1 1/4″ x 14″. The end of each are cut at 45? as shown in Fig. 11 and 8. They are secured to the leg and top with glue. The final sandpapering of the apron and top can be done after these member are in place. The table shown in the photograph was made of dark mahogany bleached with a two-solution bleach. The first solution is applied with a brush. Be sure to wet surfaces, evenly, but do not saturate the work. This first solution may darken the work considerably as it brings to the surface the natural color deposit.

To get the full plans and directions for building these Modern Mahogany Lamp Table CLICK HERE


Magazine Basket(1949’s)

magazine-basket

To get the full plans and directions for building these Magazine Basket CLICK HERE


IF CURRENT magazines are to be kept instantly available and still be stored in an orderly manner, the use of a magazine basket is almost a necessity. This lyre magazine basket is one that any home craftsman who possesses a jig saw can make without difficulty. The original was made of pine-faced plywood and lacquered, but plywood faced with mahogany, walnut or any of the better types of cabinet wood may be substituted and the work finished natural or stained.

The end members will require two pieces of 3/8″ stock 13″ wide and 14″ long. A full size pattern of this member will have to be prepared, then traced on one end member. The outline of the pair should be cut at the same time. This can be I done by placing the two members face to face, with the one- on which the contour was traced uppermost. The two pieces can be fastened together temporarily with 1/2″brads driven in the portions that are to be removed. The cutting should be done on the jigsaw. The edge can be made smooth with a file, followed by sandpapering with No. 1 and No. 2/0 sandpaper.

For the side members, two pieces of 3/8″ stock 10 3/4″ wide and 13″ long will be required. The same procedure that was outlined for the end members should be repeated. The piercing which produces the lyre is accomplished on the jig saw. In order that the blade of the jig saw may be passed through the stock, small holes will have to be bored through the piece within each area that is to be pierced.

The bottom member will require a piece of  stock 3/8″ thick, 10 1/4″ wide and 13″ long. The partition will take a piece 3/8″ stock 13 1/2″ wide and 13″ long.  As this member will require the cutting of a hand hole as well a the shaping of the upper edge, a pattern should be prepared and the outline traced on the stock. The work of cutting the upper edge and hand hole to the required contour should be done on the jig saw.

With the completion of the-various parts, all surface should be sandpapered to remove tool marks and to smooth them preparatory to assembly. Assembling of the various member will require glue and 1″ No. 20 brads. Surfaces that butt against one another should have glue applied to them before the pieces are joined. Any excess glue forced from the joints when the brads are driven should be immediately wiped off with a damp cloth.

The side members should first be set between the end members and secured with brads. The bottom member is next set in place and secured to the end member as well as to the lower edge of the  side member. The partition is finally placed in position and secured to the end and bottom members.

If the work is to have an enamel finish, a coat of shellac should be applied first; then when dry, it should be sanded with No. 4/0 sandpaper. The enamel is applied over this filler, coat of shellac. If the work is stained, the stain should be applied directly to the wood. Several coats of shellac varnish or lacquer over the stain will complete the job. If  plywood has been used and a stained or natural finish has been applied, the exposed end grain can subdued by applying several coat of flat black enamel to these surface.

To get the full plans and directions for building these Magazine Basket CLICK HERE

Benchtop Drawer Holds Jigsaw Blades(1945’s)

jigsaw-blade

To get the full plans and directions for building these Benchtop Drawer Holds Jigsaw Blade  CLICK HERE


JIGSAWING requires the use of various types of blades for different materials. The storage of the various types of blades so that they are instantly available can be simplified by the construction of a jigsaw blade drawer mounted under the bench.

The size of drawer to be made will depend to a great extent on the space available for mounting it. If the bench is less than 24″ in width, or if more than three compartments are desired, two or mare drawers may be needed. The drawer is built around a length of cardboard tubing at least 2″ in diameter. The tube is split down its length to produce the semicircular form for the drawer. Cutting of the tube may be done on the bench saw.

At least 7″ should be allowed for each blade compartment. A three-compartment drawer will require a tube 23″ long. Semi circular spacers are cut and glued inside the drawer. Strips of wood 1/4″ x 3/8″ are glued and fastened with nails along the edge of the tube to carry the drawer in the runners. The drawer front is a piece of 1/2″ stock 2″ x 3 3/4″ fastened to the semicircular block.

Drawer runners are made of two pieces of 3/4″ x 1″ stock having a 5/16″ x 3/8″ rabbet cut along one edge of each as shown in the detail. The runners are fastened to the underside of the bench top.

To get the full plans and directions for building these Benchtop Drawer Holds Jigsaw Blade  CLICK HERE

Hot Dish Mats(1945’s)

hot-dish-mat

To get the full plans and directions for building these Hot Dish Mats  CLICK HERE


MANY a high finish on a dining room table has been ruined by hot dishes. The appearance of cloudy white spots is a fairly certain sign that adequate protection of the finish has been neglected. To prevent further discoloration of valued tables the craftsman should provide hot dish mats made of materials that are poor conductors of heat. Two such materials that are practical for hot dish mats are celotex and masonite. They are good insulating materials and are firm enough to withstand prolonged use.

For complete protection it is advisable to make several mats varying in size and shape to match the dishes. Circular mats are practical for round dishes; oval-shaped mats are more useful for platters. The material used for the mats may be of any thickness from 1/4″ to 1/2″. Oval mats will require stock 6″ wide and 9″ long, while circular mats can be made of stock 6″ square. The desired shape, either oval or circular, is laid out on the stock, but is not cut out until the scalloped edge has been laid out. To do this it will be necessary to divide the circumference into a number of equal parts. It will be found far easier to mark off one quarter section at a time rather than attempt to work the entire circumference as a single unit. The divisions are marked with a pair of dividers.

Without impairing the value of a plate mat an attractive design can be pierced in the center area. For the illustrated mat a pineapple design was chosen because it is the symbol of hospitality. The pierced pineapple design will require the laying out of a fullsize pattern. The use of graph squares will simplify the work of reproducing a full-size design from the accompanying drawing. The completed outline is transferred to the stock.

The work of cutting the mat to shape should be done on a jigsaw equipped with a fine-toothed blade to eliminate the need of excessive filing or sandpapering to finish the edges. The pierced design will require the boring of a small hole somewhere with in the area that is to be removed in order to pass the jigsaw blade.

Completed mats may be left natural, but if some sort of protective coat is desired, an application of heat-resistant varnish may be given. This type of  varnish is made with a bakelite base and can be obtained at paint stores.

To get the full plans and directions for building these Hot Dish Mats  CLICK HERE

HomeCraftsman Magazine – Sept/Oct 1945 – on CD

hc_sept_oct_1945_cover3d_no

60 pages of project, plans and helpful tips
Includes:
– Miniature Bowling Alley
– Lighthouse Lamp
– Duncan Phyfe Drop-Leaf Table
– Adjustable Book Rack
– Modern Bookcase
– Animal Puzzle Toys
– Rocket Shell Table Lamp
– Several One Evening Projects
– Workshop Projects
– a drawer to hold jig saw blades
– making a veneer press
– making a scrub brush sander
– Home Improvement and Repair info
– Restoring a Mantel Clock
– Servicing and repairing locks & hinges
– Recovering old lamp shades
– how to make a mail box built into a wall

+ 2 FREE eBooks!

woodfinishingbk1

workshop_comp_3dccover_web

All of this is included in an easy to use PDF file on a quality CD in a sturdy case.

Take a look at this video to see more about the HomeCraftsman Magazine:

To open the file all you need to do is insert the CD into your computer.

Click on the file and it will open in the Adobe Reader which is free software you can get from adobe.com

Click the “bookmark” icon on the left side of the screen to easily find the project, plan or article your are looking for.

AND you can zoom in on pages and diagrams for a closer look.
Print out as many pages as you want.

No crumbling pages, no musty odor!

hc_sept_oct_1945_cd_coverpic2hc_sept_oct_1945_cd_pic

Get your copy of The Home Craftsman Magazine – Sept/Oct 1945 and you’ll be enjoying all of these neat projects within a few days!  + the 2 FREE eBooks!

Items are shipped within 1 business day!   FREE SHIPPING!!

Only $12 on CD – ORDER NOW!

Add to Cart
View Cart
By purchasing you agree not to resell in whole or part. This includes selling on Ebay, on a website, or any other venue. This also includes posting on a website for free download. Our product has a digital signature and is easily recognized. Ebay and the web are regularly monitored to ensure that our product is not being resold without our permission.

Related Posts Plugin for WordPress, Blogger...