To get the full plans and directions for building these Hot Dish Mats CLICK HERE
MANY a high finish on a dining room table has been ruined by hot dishes. The appearance of cloudy white spots is a fairly certain sign that adequate protection of the finish has been neglected. To prevent further discoloration of valued tables the craftsman should provide hot dish mats made of materials that are poor conductors of heat. Two such materials that are practical for hot dish mats are celotex and masonite. They are good insulating materials and are firm enough to withstand prolonged use.
For complete protection it is advisable to make several mats varying in size and shape to match the dishes. Circular mats are practical for round dishes; oval-shaped mats are more useful for platters. The material used for the mats may be of any thickness from 1/4" to 1/2". Oval mats will require stock 6" wide and 9" long, while circular mats can be made of stock 6" square. The desired shape, either oval or circular, is laid out on the stock, but is not cut out until the scalloped edge has been laid out. To do this it will be necessary to divide the circumference into a number of equal parts. It will be found far easier to mark off one quarter section at a time rather than attempt to work the entire circumference as a single unit. The divisions are marked with a pair of dividers.
Without impairing the value of a plate mat an attractive design can be pierced in the center area. For the illustrated mat a pineapple design was chosen because it is the symbol of hospitality. The pierced pineapple design will require the laying out of a fullsize pattern. The use of graph squares will simplify the work of reproducing a full-size design from the accompanying drawing. The completed outline is transferred to the stock.
The work of cutting the mat to shape should be done on a jigsaw equipped with a fine-toothed blade to eliminate the need of excessive filing or sandpapering to finish the edges. The pierced design will require the boring of a small hole somewhere with in the area that is to be removed in order to pass the jigsaw blade.
Completed mats may be left natural, but if some sort of protective coat is desired, an application of heat-resistant varnish may be given. This type of varnish is made with a bakelite base and can be obtained at paint stores.
To get the full plans and directions for building these Hot Dish Mats CLICK HERE
60 pages of project, plans and helpful tips
Includes:
- Miniature Bowling Alley
- Lighthouse Lamp
- Duncan Phyfe Drop-Leaf Table
- Adjustable Book Rack
- Modern Bookcase
- Animal Puzzle Toys
- Rocket Shell Table Lamp
- Several One Evening Projects
- Workshop Projects
- a drawer to hold jig saw blades
- making a veneer press
- making a scrub brush sander
- Home Improvement and Repair info
- Restoring a Mantel Clock
- Servicing and repairing locks & hinges
- Recovering old lamp shades
- how to make a mail box built into a wall
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To get the full plans and directions for building these Dust Cover CLICK HERE
ATTRACTIVE dust covers form any household or hobby work room uses can be made easily from clear sheet celluloid sold by auto supply stores. Sheets as large as 20" x 40" are available. This size is more than adequate for a variety of items: kitchen food mixers, pastry, microscopes, etc.
To make a cover, place the object on a sheet of paper and draw an outline around it. For some articles a cylindrical cover is suitable, for others a dewdrop shape is better. Several styles are shown in Fig. 1. Measure the circumference and cut a piece of celluloid 54" longer and of width equal to the height of cover required. Bend the celluloid into a cylinder, paint the ¼ " lap allowance several times with acetone. Clamp the two ends together between two pieces of wood and allow to dry for an hour. Reinforcing of the top and bottom edges is necessary to obtain sufficient rigidity. This is readily done by using No. 12 hard-drawn copper wire as used for radio aerials, or other wire of suitable stiffness. Measure a piece 1" longer than the circumference, and bend it to the original pattern. Fit the wire snugly just inside the edge of the cylinder. Mark the amount of overlap on the wire and file off the ends in a long bevel. Solder together as in Figs. 2 and 5. Make a similar reinforcing ring for the other edge.
The wire rings are fastened in place with cement made by dissolving scraps of celluloid in acetone to a syrupy consistency. Insert the ring in the cylinder and with a camel's hair brush, as in Fig. 6, flow in the cement between the wire and the celluloid. Repeat this several times, allowing time for the cement to dry between applications until eventually the space has been filled, as shown in Fig. 3. When the cement is thoroughly dry, attach the top by laying a piece of celluloid on the table and standing the cylinder on it. Lay a board across the top and weight it sufficiently to press the lower edge of the cylinder firmly against the sheet. Flow a somewhat thinner cement into the joint between the wire reinforcing ring and the celluloid top.
Go around several times, and be sure the joint is well filled. Allow to stand an hour to harden, then trim off the surplus with a sharp knife as in Fig. 7. Sand the edge smooth with fine sandpaper. No handle is really needed, but if desired a neat handle can be made by bending sheet celluloid as in Fig. 4 and cementing on top.
To get the full plans and directions for building these Dust CoverCLICK HERE
To get the full plans and directions for building these Decorative Desk Set to Make CLICK HERE
WITHOUT mastering the technique of woodcarving anyone who has the urge to create beautiful objects with his hands can produce, in the course of one evening, a desk set which is decorated with gesso to simulate woodcarving. The set consists of a stamp box and letter opener. The set shown in the photograph was decorated with a stem-and-leaf design. Alternate patterns are included in the graph-square drawing.
The round box is a dime-store product. It originally held four wooden coasters, and the top of the box was decorated with chip carving. This design was sandpapered down until the top became perfectly smooth. Any small box whether it be oval, square or rectangular can be used. Three or four wooden beads are attached as feet with small screws, and the screw heads are covered with a gesso mixture, which is also used for the modeled design on the lid. The design which is to be applied to the box should first be out lined on the surface. This design need not be accurate in every detail, as the detailing is done in the modeling.
To get the full plans and directions for building these Decorative Desk Set to Make CLICK HERE
These four little crickets or low stools are so different from ordinary designs and so gayly decorated that they will add a bright note to your home decorations or make welcome gifts.
Dressed 1" white pine, which is actually about 3" x 4" thick, is the most suitable material. For the weathercock design, one piece 9 ½" x 15" and two pieces 6" x 12" are required; for the sea-horse design, one piece 9 ½" x 13", one piece 6" x 11" and one piece 6" x 9"; for the fish design, one piece 9 ½ x 16" and two piece 6" x 12"; for the pitcher design, one piece 10" x 14" and two pieces 6" x 10".
All the cricket are made in the same general way and the individual variations in design are hown in squared drawings. Full- size patterns for the tops and the leg or base section should be carefully drawn on paper which has been ruled with 1" square. The back of the drawing is blackened with a very soft lead pencil and the patterns are then traced on the wood with a hard lead pencil. Mark the cross-lap joint accurately to suit the exact thickness of the stock being used as these joints must be tight. After the part have been sawed and sanded, glue the joint and glue and nail the top on the leg.
The decoration are painted with watercolor poster paint or tempera color directly on the raw wood. A soon as they are hard the entire cricket should be given a coat of clear spar varnish to protect the color. After this has dried, a second coat is brushed on to resist hard wear.
To get the full plans and directions for building these crickets/stools CLICK HERE
