Built-in Mail Box Provided in Wall(1945’s)


To get the full plans and directions for building these Wall Mail Box CLICK HERE

IF YOU are away from home during the day or you go away on short trips for several days at a time, it is advisable to install a built-in mail box to assure the safety of your mail. For the deposit of mail the wall compartment has a slot in the outside of the house, and for the withdrawal of mail it has a door on the inside wall. The convenience of the built-in mail box will be appreciated at all times, but in cold weather it will be especially welcome.

To provide this convenience, first buy an outside mail box plate and decide on the location for the plate. From 40″ to 42″ is a good height. Then choose a spot that you know is between two wall studs. Frame houses of single-siding construction show where the studs are, as the nails used to secure the siding are driven into the studs. If the house is of double construction these nails are no indication of the stud locations. It may be possible to check on the location to see if it is clear of studs by working on the inside wall. A series of small holes drilled through the plaster directly above the baseboard will determine if a stud is likely to interfere. Start cutting through the lath and plaster from the inside. This method is advisable, because you may have missed the stud location, and it would be much easier to rectify a mistake on the inside wall than on the outside. Mark the opening on the inside wall about 20″ high. This area should be located so the outside slot will come near the top. Knock away all plaster in this area and cut out the lath. In-stall 2×4 headers at top and bottom of the area. The top one keeps out dust; the bottom one catches the mail at the level of the door.

To cover the opening, cut a piece of 1/4″ plywood to size. Make an opening for the door and apply a frame around this opening as shown. Bevel strips of lath and nail them to one side of the plywood panel. Install the panel over the opening. Now you can plaster the panel in the usual way, building it up to the surface of the surrounding wall. The plaster, being well keyed into the beveled lath, will be permanent. Paint or wallpaper can be applied to match the rest of the wall.

To get the full plans and directions for building these Wall Mail Box CLICK HERE

Veneer Press Made of Steel Pipe has Movable Units(1945’s)


To get the full plans and directions for building these Veneer Press Made of Steel Pipe CLICK HERE

THE ultimate goal of most home wood workers is the mastery of veneering technique. Not until a workshop is equipped to lay richly-grained veneers on sizable panels can the craftsman duplicate some of the fine furniture he wants to own. Aside from their advantage in appearance, veneered panels have practical value; they are less subject to warp and they cost less than solid wood of good cabinet grade.

With very little effort and expense on the part of the home craftsman a highly satisfactory veneer press can be made of pipe and pipe fittings. A press of the type   shown in the accompanying sketches can be made to handle any size of panel that the craftsman may want to veneer. The pressure units are made as separate, movable pieces as shown in Fig. 1. The number of these units required will depend on the length of panel to be veneered. Three units will handle panels up to 24″ in length.

The pipe and fittings may be obtained from the local plumber already cut to size and threaded as required. If 3/4″ pipe is used throughout, as suggested in Fig. 1, the horizontal nipples should not exceed 6″ in length. If a pressure unit capable of handling panels wider than 12″ is needed, the use of larger pipe, measuring 1 1/4″ in diameter, is advisable. In this case, each horizontal nipple may be as long as 12″. When the pipe is being purchased, double extra strong pipe should be specified.

The base of each pressure unit is made of 2″ x 6″ wood, having a length of at least 8″ greater than that of both horizontal nipples. If each horizontal nipple is to be 6″ in length, then the length of the base should be 20″. The vertical pipe of the pressure unit should have a minimum length of 6″; this size will provide sufficient depth for veneering 3/4″ stock. If assembled boxes or other deep units are to be veneered, vertical pipes must be longer.

The center pipe should be at least 8″ long and should be threaded its full length. The tee that receives the horizontal nipples must have a clearance hole drilled through it to permit passage of the vertical center pipe. The various pipes and fittings are assembled, as shown in Fig. 1, before the flanges are bolted to the base with stove bolts.

When the veneer press is put into service, cauls must be provided for covering the panel that is being veneered, as shown in Fig. 2. Each caul is made of several pieces of 3/4″ stock measuring a little longer than the panel being veneered. Cauls are faced with a sheet of 1/4″ plywood or fiberboard as shown in the sketch. A block of 2″ x 6″ stock is placed between the caul and the end of the pressure screw to distribute the pressure.

To get the full plans and directions for building these Veneer Press Made of Steel Pipe CLICK HERE

Trysquare Made into Pencil Marker(1945’s)


To get the full plans and directions for building these Trysquare Pencil Marker CLICK HERE

WHERE pencil lines must be laid out parallel to a surface the usual method of using a rule or a straightedge can be supplanted by the quick and accurate method afforded by a trysquare prepared in a manner shown in the sketch.

A series of holes 3/32″ in diameter should be drilled through the blade of the square at every 1/4″ mark. If finer calibration is desired these holes can be drilled at every 1/8″ mark. The centering of the holes must be accurate. In order to do this, center punch marks must be made at each division mark where a hole is to be drilled. If a burr is left on the metal after the hole has been drilled, it can be removed by using a drill of larger diameter as a countersink.

In use, the handle of the trysquare is held firmly against the edge of the stock and is drawn toward the user while the point of a pencil is held in the required hole.

To get the full plans and directions for building these Trysquare Pencil Marker CLICK HERE

Closet Shoe Rack(1945’s)


To get the full plans and directions for building these Closet Shoe Rack CLICK HERE

MOTIFS that symbolize the purpose of a household accessory contribute novelty to the object if the motifs are as well chosen as the one for this shoe rack. Here a riding boot has been utilized for each upright supporting two tiers of stretcher dowels on which shoes can be conveniently stored.The uprights will require two pieces of 3/4″ stock, either plywood or solid stock, 12″ wide and 19″ long. Since these members are alike in contour, the stock from which they are to be made may be fastened together temporarily with l 1/4″ brads so that the identical uprights may be cut out as a single unit. The brads used for this purpose should be located outside that portion of the stock used for the boot.

A full-size pattern of the boot may be laid out on a sheet of paper and then be transferred to the stock with the aid of carbon paper, or the outline may be drawn directly on the wood. The laying out of a paper pattern is preferable as this method will eliminate the need of sanding off the graph squares which would have to be drawn on the stock. The locations of the 1/2″ holes to receive the dowel stretchers should be established on the pattern so they can be transferred to the stock before the wood is cut to shape. After the pattern has been traced on the stock, the four 1/2″ holes that are to take the dowels should be bored through both pieces of wood. The stock for the uprights is cut to shape on the band saw or jig saw. Sawed edges are finished smooth with a fife and sandpaper.

The length of the dowels on which the shoes are to rest will depend on the number or pairs that are to be stored. Each pair of men’s shoes will require about 9″ of dowel. A full length dowel which measures 36″ long will provide space for four pairs of men’s shoes on each shelf. The dowels are cut to length and are then glued in the hole provided in each upright. The assembled rack should be given a coat of shellac. When this coat has dried, a coat of light brown enamel should be applied to the entire piece. The laces, eyes, soles and heels of the boots may be drawn with dark brown or black enamel.

To get the full plans and directions for building these Closet Shoe Rack CLICK HERE

Related Posts Plugin for WordPress, Blogger...