Wooden Toy Crane and Bulldozer Plans

Make these Wooden Toy Crane & Bulldozer - free plans here: http://vintageinfo.net/toy-bulldozer-plans/

What little boy (and even little girl) would not enjoy playing with their very own toy crane or bulldozer? Made from easy to find and sturdy materials, these are bound to be a favorite toy for years if not generations!  These vintage toy bulldozer plans and toy crane plans are from the 1950's.

Built of box wood, these rugged action toys will provide many hours of play for your youngsters both indoors and out-doors, and they will make excellent Christmas gift items, too. The crane, which stands about 2 ft. high, has wheels to roll on. One crank handle raises and lowers the boom while another crank handle is turned to pick up a load. Cab and boom swivel on the wheeled base. The bulldozer is strong enough for a youngster to sit on and pushes sand very realistically.

Pick up several apple boxes and carefully take them apart to avoid splitting the thinner wood on the sides.  This type of box has 3/4-in. thick wood on the ends and 5/16 to 3/8-in. thick wood on the sides. The wood from the box sides is used for all 1/4-in. thick pieces (Fig. 1).

Large empty spools can be obtained from local tailor shops. A few dowels and steel rods are the only other items needed.

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Make a toy crane and bulldozer - free plans here: http://vintageinfo.net/toy-bulldozer-plans/

Crane.

Make up the base complete with wheels and axles first. If you do not have a 10-24 thread-cutting die for the axles, drill 1/16-in. holes at each axle end, and use cotter pins to hold the wheels on. Use 1 3/8-in. dia. closet clothes-pole stock for the wheels.

Make the cab base next, permanently fastening the 3/4-in. dowel pivot with glue so it is flush with the top surface of the base. Cut the various cab parts and assemble to the cab base with nails and glue. Install the crank and spool before fastening the cab roof in place. Attach the spool to the rod by drilling a 1/16-in. hole through one-half the spool diameter and crank rod. Then drive a nail through the hole allowing the nail head to project slightly for tieing the boom lift cord to. Cut the boom arms from 1/4-in. plywood with the outside grain running lengthwise so that the arms will bend when bolting them to the spacer blocks at each end.

Now, make the two swivel discs and temporarily assemble the crane to see that all parts fit properly before painting. Then disassemble and paint the boom and cab roof black; the cab orange, yellow or red; the base and part of the cab base machinery gray. When dry, rig cords to raise and lower the boom with the spool inside the cab and raise and lower the hook with spool on boom. Make up two stop blocks as in Fig. 2 & 3, and fasten with wood screws so that the blocks can be swung clear of the crank handles when turning them.

Make a toy crane and bulldozer - free plans here: http://vintageinfo.net/toy-bulldozer-plans/

Don't forget that every crane and bulldozer operator needs a bright yellow hard-hat to look the part - check out this great hard-hat on Amazon here.

Bulldozer.

The bulldozer, having fewer moving parts, is some what simpler to make than the crane. Start with the base (Fig. 4), drilling it for the 3/8-in. curtain rod axles but do not assemble the wheels at this time. Make up the engine and seat parts and assemble with nails to the engine base. For wheels, glue two pieces of 5/8-in. thick stock together and saw out oh a jig or band saw. Drill the wheels in the exact center and assemble with axles to the base. Plane a 4 x 10-in. piece at an angle for the blade and attach to the base with the two blade arms. They should be free to move up and down to follow the contour of the ground. Paint engine red and rest of bulldozer dark green, yellow or grey. Drive a screweye into rear edge of base so that other toys can be hooked on for towing.

Make a toy crane and bulldozer - free plans here: http://vintageinfo.net/toy-bulldozer-plans/

Make a toy crane and bulldozer - free plans here: http://vintageinfo.net/toy-bulldozer-plans/

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Now over to you!

Who are you going to make the crane and bulldozer for?  Let me know in the comments below...

Brickwork Afghan Pattern

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Making this Brickwork Pattern Afghan is a great way to use up fabric scraps.  Alternately, I really like the suggestion made to use special fabrics - suits, dresses...etc. This could make a very nice memento for someone.

For a practical, inexpensive, and pretty afghan we recommend this patchwork afghan in a brickwork pattern. It is an excellent way of preserving the material of treasured dresses, suits, coats, and ties. The afghan may be made from silk and rayon pieces, or, for greater warmth, make it of wool pieces and line with outing flannel in a medium or dark shade.

If the, afghan is made according to the directions given it will measure about 56 by 76 inches. The chart shows a suggested color scheme in which rose, blue, green, yellow, and violet silks were used. All blocks in a given color need not be from the same material; that is, in the afghan shown, part of the rose blocks were cut from a rose satin sash, part from a rose and white print, and still others from a rose crepe dress, but the general effect was the same. In woolens,grays, blacks, browns, tans, wines,blues, and greens, with a few gay colors will make a pretty afghan.

To cut the blocks make patterns from stiff paper or cardboard. The brick block is a rectangle 4 1/2 by 8 1/2 inches. This allows for 1/4-inch seams. For heavy woolens make the block about 5 by 9 inches, thus allowing for 1/2-inch seams. Cut a 4 1/2-inch square for the half-blocks (a 5-inch square for half-block if using woolens). Using these for patterns, cut blocks from your materials, cutting blocks on the straight thread of the goods. No set color scheme need be followed so we are not suggesting the number of blocks to be cut from each color. You may have each row a different color if you choose, or you may repeat the same color in several rows. It will be most economical to make the longest rows, or the rows you repeat most often, of the color of which you have the most blocks.

To assemble the pieced center lay pieces as shown on the chart, beginning at upper right-hand corner with the block marked R1. Continue to lay 10 more blocks of this same color across diagonally to lower left edge, following the arrangement in the row marked R1. As explained before, these blocks need not be rose but may be any other color you choose, though they should all be of the same general color.

Choose another color which looks well beside the color of this row. Beginning just below the block in upper right corner, lay a diagonal row of 11 blocks, following the arrangement of blocks in the row marked B2. Continue to lay diagonal rows as shown on the chart; then fill in the upper left-hand corner as shown by the chart. Fill ends of alternate rows with half-blocks to complete the row. Shift rows if necessary until the color harmony is a pleasing one.

Piecing: work may be done by hand or on the machine. Silks you may wish to join by hand; with woolens the machine is preferable. Beginning at right upper corner with block R1, pin it to block BELOW (B2), and that to the block BELOW, and so on to the lower right corner. There will be 8 whole Blocks in the row. Seam blocks together, press seams open, lay strip back in place. Pin and join the next strip. When all 11 strips have been joined and pressed, seam strips together lengthwise; press seams open.

Border: for our silk afghan we were fortunate, by piecing the strips, to have enough black satin from a discarded dress and robe to cut the border. For the side borders cut 2 strips 6 1/2 inches wide, and as long as the afghan plus 13 inches. For the end borders cut 2 strips 6 1/2 inches  wide, and as long as the width of the afghan plus 13 inches. Seam strips to center, mitering corners. We like outing flannel for the lining for it is both soft and warm. For the silk afghan put a thin layer of cotton batting over lining (this is optional with the wool afghan), pin afghan top in place. Put in frames and quilt, quilting around each block of center, and quilting border as illustrated or in your favorite pattern. The border is most effective if quilted with lustrous thread (pearl cotton) in a contrasting color. We used rose on the black. Bind edge with satin blanket binding in the same shade.

Once the method of making the center is understood you will find many uses for this brickwork pattern. Using smaller blocks it makes attractive quilt and pillow tops, and is a good way of using scraps of material without following a set color scheme.

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Double Nine-Patch Knitted Rag Rug Pattern (1940’s)

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Rag rugs! My family had several of them - they were in virtually every room of the house and boy did they stand the test of time!  My Mom just recently donated several of them to a local thrift shop - none of them were as fancy as this "Nine-Patch" one.  Enjoy making it!

This rug is knitted of rags sewed hit-or-miss, the arrangement of the blocks giving the nine-patch effect.

Cut wool, cotton, or rayon materials into strips about 1/2 to 1 inch wide depending on the weight of the material. Overlap ends of strips, fold edges together, and sew ends of strips together. Sew hit-or-miss fashion, alternating dark with light strips, and bright with dull colors. Wind into balls. Choose two colors of which you have large amounts for the border and sew these into separate balls, having about 1 pound of each. Distribute the remainder of these colors through-out the sewing.

Use a pair of No. 8 plastic needles and knit closely. Decide upon the width you wish to make the rug. Allow about 8 inches for border (4 inches on each side). Divide the remainder of the width by 3 (3 blocks wide) to determine the size of the blocks, which are squares. The rug will be 5 blocks long plus the 8-inch allowance for border.

Cast on a number of sts to equal the measurement desired for block. Work back and forth in garter st (knit every row slipping the first st of each row) until block is a perfect square; bind off. Make 15 such blocks. Arrange blocks as shown in illustration. In the first row have the knit rows running from side to side in the blocks at corners. Place the center block of this row with the knit rows running up and down. In the next row have the knit rows running up and down in the blocks at the edge and crosswise in the center block. Arrange the 3rd row like the first row, 4th row like the 2nd row, and 5th row like the first row. Pin blocks together to form lengthwise strips. Using 2 strands of heavy thread, sew the blocks together with over and over stitches; sew strips together.

Border: use a wooden or steel crochet hook large enough to carry the material. Attach lighter border color at one corner of rug, ch 1, work 2 sc in corner; work a row of sc around entire rug working 3 sc in corners. Keep the blocks even by Working the same number of sc along each block; sc in corner at beginning of rnd with first 2 sc, si st in first sc of rnd. Rnd2: ch 1, 2 sc in same sc with si st, 1  sc in each sc of previous rnd, working 3 sc in middle sc of 3-sc at corners; work last sc in same place with first 2  sc of rnd, si st in first sc of rnd. Work 1 more rnd like Rnd 2; fasten off. Attach darker color in st with last si st, work 4 rnds with dark color like Rnd 2; fasten off after si st. Press rug on wrong side with a damp cloth.

 

Devil May Care Dance for Halloween

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From decoration ideas for creating "Satan's Lair" to a very creepy walk on "Satan's Trail" - this "Devil May Care" Dance will definitely be scary! Enjoy this Vintage Hallowe'en Idea...

Adopt a "Devil May Care" attitude about your Hallowe'en Dance! For all you know, he may. Judging from the appear­ance of the hall, he does!

Right from the pages of Dante1 comes the inspiration for this hall trim! There are thrills and chills in store for all who enter here!

To turn your hall into Satan's lair, you will need the following material; (Quantities will depend on the size of your hall.) Flameproof Crepe Paper in the following colors: Black, Yellow, Amber, Orange, Medium Pink, Flame and National Red, Gray, White and Stone-Wall; Black streamers; black mat stock; white poster paint; medium weight wire; India ink; paste and tacks or a staple gun.
Make all cut outs ( smoke, rocks, bones, Satan, etc.) before you decorate the hall, so they will be ready to put in place at the last minute.

Cut charred trees, "horrible heads", bats and rocks from black mat stock,using scale patterns at end.

Cut ghosts (scale pattern at end) from White Crepe Paper and paint in feat­ures with India ink.

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Cut smoke clouds (scale pattern at end) from Yellow, Pink and Gray Crepe Paper.  Cut each Smoke cloud as in Fig. A. Paint   "QUIVER  ! QUAKE."' with white poster paint on a strip of black mat stock to go over main entrance.

Wind long strips of wire around a broom stick to make coils that appear in doorway (Fig. B). When you trim the hall, stretch wires out, leav­ing wide coils as shown in Illustration. Tack wires at top to doorway 1 and at bottom to floor.

When you arrive at the hall for the actual business of putting up the trim, step ladders, staple guns (or masking tape), paste and pins will become part of your equipment. NOTE - If you cannot use tacks or staples on the walls, test it for masking tape before you start. Masking tape will not adhere on all surfaces. If this is the ease, you will have to eliminate the background and depend on cut-outs for your decorations.

figures-c-d-e copyUse 10" wide strips of FLAMEPROOF Crepe Paper for the entire background. Starting at the top of the wall (7 or 8 feet from the floor), tack or staple as in Fig. C or fasten with masking tape as in Fig. D, strips of Stone-Wall Crepe around the wall.

Unfold and stretch fully, strips of Yellow Crepe Paper. Refold them to a 20" width, and cut an irregular border across the top as in Fig. E. Overlap Stone-Wall strip to depth of border and fasten to wall as you did Stone-Wall strips.

Stretch each successive strip the same way and tack on at slightly varying angles, overlapping each strip Just a bit. Continue colors in this order; Amber, Orange, Medium Pink, Flame Red, ending in National Red. The last strip should come close to the floor.

Paste or pin cut-outs to the walls,    using    Illustrations    as    your guide.

Unroll and crush Black streamers, then drape them like withered vines, across the top of the stone wall. Loop smoke clouds out and pin or paste them tn bottom of wall along floor. Vary colors and arrange as in Illustration.

Satan, sitting on a rock in the corner, can be either the M.C. for the evening, dressed in character, or a stuffed effigy of the "Old Boy" himself; For a likeness, stuff a suit of long underwear with newspapers. Wire it so it will hold a realistic, position. Stretch and crush large sections of Red Crepe Paper and paste them over entire figure, to cover it completely. For head -stuff a paper bag and cover it with Red Crepe Paper. Cut features from Black and White Crepe Paper and paste in place. Wind wires with Black Crepe Paper and insert in head for horns. Satan's cape is made from Black Crepe Paper. His fork is a real one.

The skull can be made just the same as the Devil's head, substituting White Crepe Paper for Red. Wind chin in with a narrow band of crepe paper to make it narrow.

Long claw-like hand and bones are made of wires covered with White Crepe Paper and shaped as desired.

Dancing will supply most of the evening's entertainment, but it does seem a shame not to have a genuine Horror Trail sometime during the evening when the setting is so perfect for it!

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The following may start you off on the right trail:

If Satan is your M.C ., he will read the following lines, through an ampli­fier as the guests travel a prearranged trail. It is better to let them go in groups, several at one time. Be sure to blindfold each guest securely before the Journey starts. Suggestions for the trail will follow the story.

King Satan sat upon his throne Surrounded by flaming fires, His friends in fury danced about To watch the fate of liars!

Lo, you trembling wraiths, come forth His judgment to receive, Although you plead both long and hard There will be no reprieve.

Come, harken to his court the while By chance we may ascend Some other wayward soul to meet And warn them of this end.

His voice, metallic in its tone Our fearful ears accost, "Go forth, my bidding must be done, Or you will all be lost!

Walk barefoot through the haunted wood, On to the River Styx Cross on the damp and slimy stones Up to a wall of bricks.

  • Victims remove shoes. Walk on burlap spread with pine needles. Spray hose over smooth stones. Any brick or concrete wall.

Mount on a beast of burden now Ride high on unmarked trails, The passage is so narrow here That mere man's footing fails.

  • Plant, covered  with fur mat or old coat.  Two men propel it, stumbling "over narrow trails".

A nest of snakes on craggy peak Will serve you well to arm Braid them into a wreath to wear To keep you safe from harm.

  • Damp macaroni in rock nest.
  • Victims braid own crown, while still blindfolded.

Wear then your slimy crown - held high As on through no man's land. There writhing bodies on the ground Will bid you lend a hand.

  • Bags of rags on ground. Someone  clutches  at  victim's ankles.

Heed not their cries, for now there comes, The fifth and final test.
A Devil's paint brush by a well, Will let you know the rest;

  • Devil's paint brush or dried fall asters by bucket of water.

With all the strength that you have left, Blow on this downy head. If all the down blows off - you're free, If some remains - you're dead ....

  • A great crashing of thunder, made by shaking a roll of tin.

Satan reads these words through a loud speaker, while guests are in the hall.

When they leave the hall in Verse 5, his voice follows via a loud speaker.

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