Give small children safe and happy sledding with this push or pull sleigh.
It’s not so easy to find a commercial sled that’s just right for Junior when he is a very little fellow, but you can build one without much trouble. And it will be useful, too, for carrying packages on shopping trips.
For constructing this sleigh, you will require a piece of 3/8″ waterproof plywood 24″ x 60″, hardwood strips 3/4″ or 13/16″ square for cleats, a piece of 13/16″ stock 4 1/2″ x 11 1/4″ and two lengths of strap iron 1/8″ x 3/4″ x 50″ for runners. The handle will require a piece of hardwood 3/4″ or 13/16″ x 1 1/2″ X 36″, two pieces of strap iron 1/8″ x 3/4″ x 12″, a 3/16″ rod 24″ long, a 3/4″ dowel 10″ in length and a piece of strap iron 1/16″ x 3/4″ x 12″.
NOTE: Click on each picture to see larger versions.
A full-size pattern of the side member, as shown in drawing, is laid out on a sheet of paper 12″ x 24″ and traced on the plywood. The stock is cut from the panel; then both side members are cut to shape on the band or jig saw.
The back member is a piece of 3/8″ plywood 14 1/2″ wide and 11 1/4″ long while the front is 3/8″ x 9 1/2″ x 11 1/4″. The upper edge of both members is curved as shown in drawing.
Two hardwood strips 3/4″ or 13/16″ square are cut to a length of 12″ and secured to the inside face of the back member with 1″ No. 8 flat-head screws. Holes for these screws should be bored and counter sunk in the plywood panels. These cleats should be spaced 3/8″ above the lower edge.
Two short strips 6″ long are secured to the inside face of the front panel in the same manner. These strips should be allowed to project 3/4″ below the lower edge so that they may be beveled after the slant ing floor board has been installed.
The sides are attached to the cleats with the same size screws. The slanting floor board is cut to the required size; then the edges are beveled at an angle of 45°. The forward edge is notched at the corners to fit around the upright cleats. The cleats that carry the bottom are secured to the side member with 1″ No. 8 flat-head screws; then the bottom is cut and joined to the cleats. The seat cleats are fastened and the seat set and secured in place.
The runners are bent to shape by using a machinist’s vise to hold the metal. The curved forward ends can be worked over a round mandrel such as a large diameter pipe or a heavy piece of rounded wood. The runners are secured to the body with 7/8″ No. 12 flat-head screws after drilling and countersinking holes in the metal. Stout screw eyes are set in the front and back as shown in drawing for the handle and brace. The eyes should be at least 1/4″ to receive the pins in the handle.
The handle is made as shown in drawing. The 1/8″ x 3/4″ strap iron should be secured to the tongue of the pusher with 3/16″ x 2″ round-head stove bolts. The handle is fastened to the end with a 2″ No. 9 flat-head screw over which the 1/16″ x 3/4″ strap iron is bent. This U-shaped piece is secured to the tongue with a 3/16″ x 1 1/2″ round-head stove bolt. A screw eye is provided in the tongue to take the brace. The brace, after being bent, should have small holes drilled through it near each end to take cotter pins. If it is impossible to have 1/4″ diameter pins welded to the ends as shown in drawing, 1/4″ stove bolts can be substituted.
After the priming coat is applied, all holes should be puttied. Finish in ivory enamel, black runners and handle in natural grain. Decalomania subjects will smarten the appearance, and striping as shown in the side view will also be effective if skillfully applied.
NOTE: Click on each picture to see larger versions.
