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Make A Lighthouse Lamp (1940’s)

Make a Lighthouse Lamp http://vintageinfo.net/lighthouse-lamp-directions/For entrance hallways and stair landings a small light is sometimes needed as a safety measure. For this purpose the model lighthouse illustrated here is ideal. It presents a pleasing appearance and costs little to operate. Construction centers around a wood-turning lathe. The pedestal is made of oak and is filled and stained to bring out the richness of the grain.

Where ever a small light is required as a safety measure this attractive lamp will be appropriate. It takes little space and operates all night at low cost. A 7 1/2-watt electric light bulb of the type used as a pilot light on electrical equipment is housed behind a piece of frosted celluloid.

Construction of the lighthouse should be  Read more

How To Make A Glass Block Lamp

Any crafty person with a few hand tools can make a pair of lamps similar to the one shown in the photograph for a minimal cost. Try to select seasoned, clear-grained wood. There should be no knots unless you want to use the lamps in a knotty pine amusement room or den. Birch, maple or oak is excellent if you have the proper tools for working it. You will need eight feet of stock dressed to 1 1/2" x 3 5/8".

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Modern Mahogany Lamp Table(1949’s)

modern-mahogany-lamp-table

To get the full plans and directions for building these Modern Mahogany Lamp Table CLICK HERE


Construction of this modern lamp table should be started with the preparation of the leg member. These will require four piece of mahogany dressed to 1 1/2" square and 30" long. The leg are to be tapered on the inside surface only, starting from a point 3/4" from the upper end. At this point the leg should measure 1 1/2" square. The taper extend to the lower end, at which point the leg is to measure 7/8" square a shown in Fig. 10. It is advisable to lay out these tapers before attempting to cut them. If this is done, the work can be checked and the danger of error eliminated. Tile tapering may be done on the bench saw with the aid of a tapering jig a shown in Fig. 1. The waste pieces should be set aside to be used in a later operation. At the bench saw will leave the surface rough, it will be necessary to dress the stock by hand planning or passing it over a jointer for a light cut.

The next operation will be that of laying out and cutting the dadoes a shown in Fig. 11 to take the helve. The location of these dadoes is taken from the working drawing, Fig. 10, while their size is shown in Fig.11. To cut the dadoes, a fixture will have to be prepared a shown in Fig. 2. The fixture consists of a piece of 2 x 2  stock at least 18" long with a V-groove cut along one face. The groove can be made on the bench saw by tilting the table or the arbor at an angle of 45?. The width of the dado is laid out on this fixture about 6" from one end. The depth at which the dado is cut on the fixture ill be the controlling factor for cutting the dadoes to the required depth on the leg. As shown in Fig. 2, the leg is placed in the fixture with the waste trip, which  were  previously removed, put back to bring the leg horizontal to the saw table.After the dadoes have been completed, 3/8" holes are located and bored in each as shown  in Fig. 3 and 11, to take dowels. The depth of the dowel hole should be 9" x 16" below the surface of  the dado.

Next, a ¼" x   ¾" rabbet is cut on the outside surfaces each  member at the
upper end to take the ¼" apron. This can be done on the bench saw.  The shelve are made of 3/4" mahogany.  One measure 12 3/4" square, the other  13 1/4" square. The four corner of each are cut at an angle of 45? as shown in Fig. 4 and 11 to fit the dadoes previously cut in the leg member. A 3/8" hole is located in the center of each corner cut and bored to a depth of   9" x 16". The shelf and leg member should be and sandpapered with   No. 1 and No. 2 sandpaper. Figure 5 show how these member are assembled. Dowel 1" long are cut and glued in the dowel hole of the leg member. The helve are joined to the leg member after applying glue to the dowel and dowel hole. Lamp should be used as in Fig. 7 to force the shelve into the dadoes for a tight fit.

The table top ill require a piece of 3/4" mahogany 14" square. A 1/4" x 1/2" rabbet is cut along the edge and end a shown in Fig. 6. The top is to be joined to the legs by mean of dowel a shown in Fig. 7. To spot these dowels, 1" brads are driven part way into the end of each leg at the center. The head is cut off with nippers to produce a harp point. The table top is placed in position, resting on the projecting brads. A light tap on the table top at each corner will produce an identation on the underside, there by locating  the position of the dowel hole. The brads are withdrawn and 3/8"hole is bored to a depth of 3/4" in each leg. A 3/8" hole 1/2" deep is bored in the underside of the top at each dowel location. Dowel 3/8" in diameter and 11/8" long are cut and glued in the top member, which is joined to the leg a. shown in Fig. 7.

The apron requires four piece 1/4" x 1 1/4" x 14". The end of each are cut at 45? as shown in Fig. 11 and 8. They are secured to the leg and top with glue. The final sandpapering of the apron and top can be done after these member are in place. The table shown in the photograph was made of dark mahogany bleached with a two-solution bleach. The first solution is applied with a brush. Be sure to wet surfaces, evenly, but do not saturate the work. This first solution may darken the work considerably as it brings to the surface the natural color deposit.

To get the full plans and directions for building these Modern Mahogany Lamp Table CLICK HERE


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